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The amaryllis bulbs have become a fixture of Christmas or holiday gift-giving for decades. Whether you buy one for yourself or as a gift for someone else, they will last for many years if properly cared for.

Although they will always be amaryllis to gardeners, the vibrant, large flowering bulb actually belongs to the genus Hippeastrum. A true amaryllis is not forced. This is a botanical misunderstanding that began with Linnaeus in the 18th century and continued well into the 19th. By the time botanists finally got things sorted out, the name amaryllis was finally attached to the garden hybrids that are the offspring of species originating in Central and South America.

At garden centers and gift stores, you'll find both pre-planted and unpotted bulbs. If you're buying unpotted bulbs, inspect them to make sure there are no soft spots or depressed, reddened areas. The bulbs also should have a number of plump roots. Don't be concerned if an amaryllis bulb has begun to sprout some new growth that looks pale. The growth will green up as soon as you plant the bulb and move it into bright sunlight.

Newly purchased dormant bulbs should be potted in light, but rich potting mix in a pot that has drainage holes and is about four inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. The top third of the bulb should remain above the soil. Be sure not to bury the neck of the bulb. Place the newly potted bulb in a sunny spot. Keep the soil moist but not wet, and don't let the temperature fall much below 65 degrees. As soon as growth begins, use a liquid fertilizer at recommended strength every one to two weeks. As flower stems emerge and develop, they may need staking.

During flowering, place the potted amaryllis in a location with good light and cooler indoor temperatures, in the 60-70 degree range, for maximum bloom. Continue to keep the soil moist but not wet.

After flowering, allow emerging leaves to keep growing. Again, keep moist in a cool, bright spot. Remove the flowers as soon as they begin to fade and look wilted. Nip them off behind the ovary, which is the small bulge immediately next to the flower, where seeds develop. By treating it as a regular houseplant and keeping it green, it helps put energy back in the bulb.

As the weather warms up in the spring, you can put the amaryllis plant outside. Be sure there is no longer the threat of frost. Set the pot outside in shade to acclimate to the sun. After a few days, move the pot to a full-sun site for the summer. The entire pot can be set in the ground, or the pot can remain above the ground throughout the summer. Never allow the soil to dry out and continue fertilizing until the middle or end of August.

The amaryllis can stay outside until frost threatens. Move it indoors to a dark location and let it go dormant by not watering. Leave any green or yellowing foliage on the plant until it dies back completely.

After its rest, or dormancy period of 8-10 weeks, remove the remaining dead foliage. You can repot the bulb or continue to grow it in the same pot. Water the bulb once and place the pot back in a sunny location. Wait two or three weeks until growth starts, and start watering as needed. New flower stalks and flowers should develop during the winter, anytime from December to March. You can continue this routine for many years with the same beautiful results.

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Ways to Access Information

The voice mail is checked year round. Leave a message at 651.674.4417 ext. 18, and a Master Gardener will return your call.

www.extension.umn.edu/county/chisago Check out the 'Hot Topics' box in the middle of the page for current Chisago County Master Gardener news and events. You can also click on 'Ask a Master Gardener' next to the cute little flower on the right hand side of the page. Here you can search 1000's of answers from Master Gardeners around the state. If you don't find your answer you can submit a question online or search for University publications.

Bell Museum of Natural History: For information about snakes, skunks, raccoons or other wildlife around your yard, call the wildlife information line at (612) 624-1374 or www.bellmuseum.org.

To see the latest Yard and Garden newsletter, go to: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLNews.html.

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