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As I write this article we are having some of the coldest weather in four years. So why would I be writing about lawns? Saturday, March 5, our 7th annual Bonanza will be held at the Maranatha Church near Forest Lake. Jerry Spetzman is one of our many instructors that day and he will be speaking on lawn care and fertilizer laws.

My reason for writing this article is to plant some questions in the homeowners mind so they may want to include this class during that very busy day.

We seem to have a love hate relationship with our lawns. After a winter break from lawn chores, we are ready to get going again. Despite the fact that early spring is the time to plant flowers, vegetables, add trees and shrubs to the landscape; the number one question the University receives is on lawn care.

Early May is the time to target specific areas of the lawn where crabgrass is a problem each year. Use a pre-emergent herbicide only where it is needed. If you buy it separately and not as a combination with fertilizer, you won't be applying nutrients the lawn doesn't need at the time.

If you fertilized twice last fall, you don't need to fertilize again this spring. When is the best time to fertilize? How much should I use and what kinds of fertilizer can I use?

You can plant grass seed after the soil warms up, usually in May. A big mistake is that homeowners are so anxious to plant grass seed as soon as it dries off. It's important to let the ground warm up to ensure better germination of the seeds. If there is a low germination count, it's an invitation for the weed seed to take the place of the grass seed.

Speaking of weeds, how do you get rid of creeping Charlie? How about other weeds that have taken over the lawn? When and how often do you apply herbicide, how much, and what works best on my lawn?

There is more to mowing the lawn than servicing the mower and starting it up. In fact, how and when you mow your lawn may have a great deal to do with the health of your lawn. Cut the grass as soon as it grows one-third longer than you prefer. That way, when you mow you won't have to catch the clippings. They can fall back to the soil where they'll break down and help provide small amounts of nutrients to the grass. As weather grows warmer let the grass grow taller, but continue to take off only one-third of its length each time you mow.

Do I bag the clippings and do I mow when it's dry?

Lawn diseases just don't appear out of nowhere. Many of the organisms that cause turf diseases are already present in the soil. It is only when the grass plants are in a weakened state that they are likely to be afflicted by disease.

What are some of the diseases that affect lawns? How can you recognize them and what can be done about them? Are there grasses that are resistant to disease?

Most homeowners do a much better job on their lawn than I do. However, there are parts of my lawn that need work or I'm going to lose it. What are the steps to rejuvenate parts of a lawn or the entire lawn? How about thatching? Do I aerate the lawn and when do I do it? What is the best grass seed for my lawn? Last, but not least, how about fertilizer? How much, when, and what kind?

Part of Jerry Spetzman's class will deal with answering questions I have raised as well as what the new fertilizer laws mean to you and your lawn.

Hope to see you at the Bonanza Saturday, March 5. You can call 651-674-4417 to leave a question for a Master Gardener.

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