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I have received some calls regarding a bug that likes to hang around in the laundry area and where pet food is stored. When the insect was described, I think the culprit is the larder beetle.

The adult beetles are dark brown with a cream colored band across the top of their wing covers. They are about 1/4-1/3 inch in length. The larvae are worm-like, fairly hairy, dark brown in color and appear banded. They have a pair of spines on their tail end that curve backwards.

The dictionary definition for larder is a place in a home where food is kept. Larder beetles were named for their attraction to larder where they fed on cured meats. It is common for a larder beetle infestation to occur as the result of a cluster fly or face fly in homes or cabins. In late summer and fall, these flies seek shelter in buildings. Large numbers of these flies die in wall voids, attracting larder beetles to that area the following year.

It is not uncommon for animal carcasses, such as mice or squirrel to be trapped in a cabin or attic wall. When flies or dead animals are the source of the infestation, it’s often difficult to find and remove the food source.

Larder beetles will go away on their own once the food source is eaten. If they are a problem every year, it’s necessary to exclude flies and animals from the building to avoid attracting them.

Although the larder beetle is probably in the category of a nuisance insect, it can cause some damage. When the larvae are full grown, they wander about searching for a place to pupate. It is common for them to bore a short distance into wood for protection while pupating. Fortunately damage to wood is slight. Larvae may also bore into other soft material, such as books.

Adult larder beetles overwinter outdoors. It is common for them to enter homes in spring through cracks in the home’s exterior. They lay eggs if they find an appropriate food source for the larvae. Both adults and larvae eat high-protein materials. Known foods include animal hides and furs, feathers, meat, cheese, dry pet food and dead insects.

Sanitation is the first step in controlling established beetle problems. Clean up and remove infested food sources and make uninfested sources inaccessible to larder beetles. Store dry pet food in a metal or heavy plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Store cheese and dried meats in the refrigerator. Infested materials can be frozen at 0 degrees fahrenheit for 48 hours to kill eggs, larvae and adults.

Insecticides can help control this beetle. However, if a food source is still present, insecticides will only provide temporary control. If an insecticide is necessary, select an aerosol or liquid ready-to-use product that is labeled for indoor use. Spray along cracks and crevices, baseboards, and in corners near the area of the infested materials and where larder beetles are seen. Read all label directions carefully before buying insecticides and again before applying them. Information on the label should be used as the final authority. A reputable pest control service can also be hired to treat a home for larder beetles.

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Upcoming Classes

•June 23, 6:30-8 p.m.––Shrub Roses, Flowering Shrubs, Fairview Lakes Regional Health Care Center in Wyoming. Cost: $4. Please call the office to register. 674-4417.

For information on upcoming topics in the Summer 2005 Flowering Gardening Series and how to buy tickets, call or stop by the Chisago County Extension Office, 38780 8th Ave, North Branch, or visit our website to download a ticket order form: www.extension.umn.edu/county/chisago.

•June 28––FREE CLASS!!

Learn what it takes to have a memorable garden. Chuck Levine will share with you his often photographed and toured garden as it changes through the seasons. Learn what plants and flowers make each season memorable. He will also answer all of your garden questions. Lavine is a professional horticulturist who has appeared on radio and television, published numerous articles in magazines and journals, and teaches horticulture for Intermediate School District #287 at Hennepin Technical College. Chuck is also the editor of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society's Month-by-Month Gardening in Minnesota and Minnesota Gardener's Guide.

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In Your Yard and Garden

The only pruning you should be doing now is repairing storm damage. If the injured include elm or oak, treat wound with pruning paint or wound dressingˆlatex paint is best.

If you're going to prune lilacs this year, finish it now. The window for pruning without jeopardizing next year's growth is approximately 4 weeks after bloom. Lilacs need the rest of season for new flower production.

There are lots and lots of galls on tree leaves right now. Ash flower galls and galls on leaves of maple and oaks are quite common.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1009.html

It is still cool enough to do broadleaf weed control for dandelions, etc. Avoid using these products when temperatures near the mid 80s.

All of the warm-season weed grasses are up so now is a good time to practice post emergence crabgrass control. Products containing disodium methylarsenate (DSMA), and monosodium methylarsenate (MSMA) can be bought separately or with broadleaf control products. Pay attention to temperatures as these products can yellow bluegrass when it gets warm.

You can still seed green beans, cucumbers, zucchini, Asian greens and herbs, such as basil, cilantro or dill.

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