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I have been writing about bare root plants that the Chisago County Master Gardeners are offering for sale this year. I wrote two articles, one on raspberries, last week it was strawberries, and this week is on blueberries.

Several years ago I was given some blueberry plants for Father’s Day. They began to die a slow death and within a couple of years they were gone. Several gardeners told me that their blueberries had a similar type fate.

Four years ago I was ready to put a full row of blueberries in, however, this time I checked with Rod Elmstrand, who at that time was the Chisago County Extension Educator. Rod suggested that I have the soil tested and the ph tested out at 7.5, which is way too high for blueberries. They do best with a ph between 4.5 and 5.5 which is an acid soil.

Blueberries are in the heath family, which includes azaleas, rhododendrons, and cranberries. They are tolerant of acid soil and have low fertility requirements. When heath family plants are grown on alkaline soil near foundations of homes (where lime leaches into the soil raising the ph) iron deficiency can become apparent. When soil becomes more acidic (lower ph), iron is more easily dissolved and absorbed.

One of the misconceptions about blueberries is that since they grow wild in the woods that they will grow well in the shade. If you have ever picked them in the wild, you probably found them in open and well drained areas.

The planting directions may be different for you because your soil may be friendlier for raising blueberries. I had to dig the holes about two feet deep and about two feet in diameter. I planted my plants in a row about six feet apart. Next, I mixed the soil I had dug out with acid peat in about a 1:1 ratio. You can also mix about one-half cup elemental sulfur in the peat/soil mixture before planting the bush. The purpose for using the elemental sulfur is to help lower the ph. I do not use aluminum sulfate as high rates of the compound can be toxic to the roots and even kill the plants.

Once you have gone through all of this, you are ready to enjoy raising blueberries. They don’t really require any more maintenance than other plants. They need to be watered on a regular basis due to their shallow root system. I fertilize with an acid fertilizer about every two weeks. I also mulch around the plants with pine needles or wood chips. This is to help retain moisture and keep the weeds down.

We are selling three varieties of blueberries this year:

•Chippewa is a mid-season plant that is compact, upright, and grows about four feet high. The fruit is medium large, very light blue, firm and very sweet. Chippewa is recommended in all areas where a super cold hardy variety is desired.

•Northcountry is short in stature, where the plant matures at 20 inches high. The fruit is small and has a good flavor like wild berries. It is good for home garden use and also an outstanding ornamental with brilliant fall colors.

•Northblue is a mid-season variety. It’s a semi-dwarf bush, growing to a height of three to four feet. The fruit is large, dark blue, with a wild blueberry flavor. Northblue is quite productive for its size, producing between three to seven pounds per bush.

It is a good idea to plant more than one variety of blueberry and to alternate them in the same row. This is because some varieties will have better production if they are able to cross-pollinate.

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WOW––53 people attended the apple tree pruning class February 28. This was the first in the new Spring Gardening Series--Growing Edibles. The remaining 10 topics include both fruit and vegetables.

The next class in the series is Growing Grapes, taught by Master Gardener, Tom Dickhudt. This is the only class that is not on a Tuesday. It will be Thursday, March 16, at the Senior Center, in North Branch at 6:30 p.m. There is a $4 fee for the class to cover the cost of materials. (You can take the whole series for $20.)

Tom will discuss how to successfully grow grapes in our climate, as well as the varieties that have been developed to grow in Minnesota for both wine-making and table use. There will be time for questions. Although walk-ins are welcome, we ask that you pre-register so that enough handout materials will be available. You can call or stop by the office to register if you do not have a form.

The brochure for the entire series, as well as the plant order form is on our web page in the Hot Topics box: http://www.extension.umn.edu/county/chisago or you can call the office to have one mailed to you.

Don’t forget the voicemail is available all year long at 651-674-4417 for help with your gardening questions. It is checked by volunteer Master Gardeners who try to respond within a couple of days. During office hours ask for the Master Gardener voicemail, after hours, select ext. 18.

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