October 11, 2007 at 8:48 a.m.
Late summer and fall lawn care
Late summer and fall lawn care
Water needs in the fall are especially important. While water can often be applied less frequently due to the shorter days and cooler temperatures of late summer and fall, it is important that adequate soil moisture levels be maintained to support the fall growth of our lawns and avoid lawn stress going into the winter months. For the most part, that means applying about an inch of water every 14 to 21 days; shorter intervals during periods of higher temperatures and dry conditions. By about mid-October, water only to ensure that the ground is moist as it begins to freeze. Keeping the grass too wet and succulent late in the season can encourage more snow mold and perhaps increase the winter injury potential.
If you choose to fertilize only once a year, make it a fall and late fall application. This type of fertilizer is usually label as Winterizing Fertilizer. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer application should be avoided, especially during naturally occurring periods of active growth. However, modest application rates of nitrogen that support more uniform growth through the fall are very beneficial. Nitrogen should be applied during the first couple of weeks in September and repeated again around Halloween in the Twin Cities area.
Before applying fall fertilizer, you may want to consider Core Aerating your lawn especially if you have heavy clay soil. Rent a core aerator that takes up tubular plugs of soil when you run it across your lawn. If it doesn't remove plugs of soil, all an aerator does when it pokes holes is pack the soil to either side of each hole even tighter than it was before. (Skip those nifty-looking sandals with the spikes. While it might be fun to stomp around in them, they really won't help aerate your lawn.) Don't rake up those plugs of soil that lie on top of the lawn. Rain and fluctuating temperatures will crumble them eventually, and they'll actually act as a top-dressing on the lawn, helping to break down thatch accumulation.
You should not control crabgrass and other annual weeds at this time as they have no frost tolerance and are entering the completion of their annual life cycle. Late summer and early fall are good times, however, for controlling perennial broadleaf weeds as they are still actively growing making herbicides more effective. These weeds would include Creeping Charlie, dandelion and white clover.
Remember, the best method to controlling weeds in the lawn is to maintain a dense and healthy lawn that makes little room for weeds. Also, you may want to have a soil test done to make sure you are giving your lawn the nutrients it really needs. Soil test kits are available at your local county extension office. The fee is $15 per sample. Practicing good fall lawn care will help ensure a thicker, greener, healthier lawn next season.
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UPCOMING CLASSES
Join the Master Gardeners Saturday, Oct. 13 for Fall Insect Control from 10-11 a.m. Dr. Vera Krischik, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology U of M, will talk about what steps you can take now and in early spring to control insects in your yard and garden.
You are invited to join us after the class for a harvest potluck lunch. This would also be a good opportunity for anyone thinking about becoming a Master Gardener to see what we do and get more information about the program.
The class will be held at the Senior Center in North Branch. You can call 651-674-4417 for more info. This would also be a good opportunity for anyone thinking about becoming a Master Gardener to see what we do and get more information about the program.
A cutback in staffing has made it necessary for the Extension Office to limit hours of operation. We would suggest that you call ahead to verify that the office is open if you plan to stop by.
(References: University of Minnesota Extension Yard & Garden Brief Sept 2007 and other University of Minnesota Extension publications.)
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