October 30, 2008 at 7:39 a.m.
After that first hard frost, most perennials, which began their long dormancy process weeks ago, will need some fall clean up. Peonies and hostas will benefit by being cut back to reduce the risk of fungal leaf diseases next season. Daylilies, iris, and phlox can also be cut down but be careful not to cut down deep enough to expose the crown. Some perennials like Autumn Joy Sedum should be left standing as is because their flat rounded flower heads help catch snow that provides needed winter insulation. Ornamental grasses too should be left standing as they add winter interest to the landscape and do better when cut way back in early spring.
Any plant refuse that you suspect may be infected with any fungus, bacteria, or insects, should be thrown out and not composted.
It's too late in the season to prune trees and shrubs, but mid-winter is the best time to prune apple, crabapple, oaks, and many other shades trees so have those sharpened and cleaned pruning tools ready come February and March. It is crucial that your trees, shrubs and especially your evergreens, receive at least an inch of water a week so that they go into their winter dormancy well hydrated. This needs to be done until the ground freezes and should be done manually if we don't get sufficient rainfall. Trees all over the state shown signs of the past years droughts. Early color change on maples is one of these signs as are the brown needles from winter burn on evergreens. Help prevent tree bark from cracking by wrapping the trunk with tree wrap, but it must be removed in early spring before it becomes a breeding environment for insects and disease.
Be sure to rake the leaves in your yard so they don't have a chance to become wet and packed down leaving the grass more vulnerable to fungal snow mold development. Shredded leaves make an excellent mulch for winter protection in the perennial garden. Newly planted perennials can benefit from an eight to twelve inch pile of shredded leaves, straw, hay or pine needles to help them survive those first few winters until they become will established. If you only fertilize your lawn once a year, do it now. Late fall applications with a winterizing fertilizer allow the grass to take in the nutrients and store them for use next spring.
Fill those empty flower containers this winter with evergreen branches, spruce tips and winterberries and remember to feed the birds seeds and suet. If possible, invest in a heated birdbath so our feathered friends have a good source of water. I often have more birds at the birdbath than at the feeders.
Once our lawns and gardens are sleeping under a thick blanket of snow, we can begin planning for the next garden season. Mark your calendars for the Chisago County Master Gardeners Spring Bonanza to be held March 14, 2009 at the Abundant Life Church in North Branch. Watch your local newspapers for more information or call our Extension Office at 651-213-5430 to be put on our mailing list.
As the first flakes of snow fell in northern Minnesota last week, I thought this would be an excellent time to go over some of the lawn and garden chores that can be done at this time of year. Some are critical to the survival and overall good health of plants.
After that first hard frost, most perennials, which began their long dormancy process weeks ago, will need some fall clean up. Peonies and hostas will benefit by being cut back to reduce the risk of fungal leaf diseases next season. Daylilies, iris, and phlox can also be cut down but be careful not to cut down deep enough to expose the crown. Some perennials like Autumn Joy Sedum should be left standing as is because their flat rounded flower heads help catch snow that provides needed winter insulation. Ornamental grasses too should be left standing as they add winter interest to the landscape and do better when cut way back in early spring.
Any plant refuse that you suspect may be infected with any fungus, bacteria, or insects, should be thrown out and not composted.
It's too late in the season to prune trees and shrubs, but mid-winter is the best time to prune apple, crabapple, oaks, and many other shades trees so have those sharpened and cleaned pruning tools ready come February and March. It is crucial that your trees, shrubs and especially your evergreens, receive at least an inch of water a week so that they go into their winter dormancy well hydrated. This needs to be done until the ground freezes and should be done manually if we don't get sufficient rainfall. Trees all over the state shown signs of the past years droughts. Early color change on maples is one of these signs as are the brown needles from winter burn on evergreens. Help prevent tree bark from cracking by wrapping the trunk with tree wrap, but it must be removed in early spring before it becomes a breeding environment for insects and disease.
Be sure to rake the leaves in your yard so they don't have a chance to become wet and packed down leaving the grass more vulnerable to fungal snow mold development. Shredded leaves make an excellent mulch for winter protection in the perennial garden. Newly planted perennials can benefit from an eight to twelve inch pile of shredded leaves, straw, hay or pine needles to help them survive those first few winters until they become will established. If you only fertilize your lawn once a year, do it now. Late fall applications with a winterizing fertilizer allow the grass to take in the nutrients and store them for use next spring.
Fill those empty flower containers this winter with evergreen branches, spruce tips and winterberries and remember to feed the birds seeds and suet. If possible, invest in a heated birdbath so our feathered friends have a good source of water. I often have more birds at the birdbath than at the feeders.
Once our lawns and gardens are sleeping under a thick blanket of snow, we can begin planning for the next garden season. Mark your calendars for the Chisago County Master Gardeners Spring Bonanza to be held March 14, 2009 at the Abundant Life Church in North Branch. Watch your local newspapers for more information or call our Extension Office at 651-213-5430 to be put on our mailing list.



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