April 16, 2009 at 7:31 a.m.
All about growing tomatoes
All about growing tomatoes
About 10 days before planting outdoors, start hardening off seedlings by moving them outside, (3-4 hours on the first day) gradually increasing the time spent outdoors each day. Choose a location protected from sun and wind, like a porch, balcony, north side of a house, or under a tree. Too much time in the direct sun before hardening off can actually sunburn the tender leaves of seedlings.
Once hardened off, seedlings can be set out in the garden. Transplant on a cloudy day or late afternoon when the sun has passed its peak. Even hardened off plants may wilt when first planted out, but they generally recover within a day or so. Your soil should be 60 degrees at 4 inches deep. If you don't have a thermometer, stick your hand in the dirt. If it feels cold and wet, it is not time to plant. The air temperature may be warm enough that the plants will not be damaged, but until the roots feel heat, the plants will not grow.
Remove the lower leaves and plant them 3-4 inches deeper than they grew in their pot. More roots will grow out of the stem below soil level. Now is a good time to put up stakes or cages so that fruit is not lying on the ground where it is more likely to get damaged or diseased. It is much easier to set up your supports when the plants are small.
Most of the problems people have growing tomatoes are fungal diseases. Two things that help prevent these are good air circulation and protecting the leaves from fungal spores in the soil. Planting them at least 2-3 feet apart with a good support system will allow proper air circulation. Mulching keeps the spores in the soil from splashing onto the leaves.
Physiological problems are environmental and usually seen on the fruit. These include cracking, catface, blossom end rot, and white core. They are caused in a large part by water and temperature fluctuations. Using mulch will help to control temperature and moisture fluctuations at the root zone. If it is going to rain a lot it might be best to pick fruit that is ready to ripen so it doesn't crack. Successive fruit on the plant may grow normally.
Tomatoes do best in a sunny (at least six hours each day) location that has healthy soil with high levels of organic matter worked in. Although larger fruit may be produced with a lot of water, the flavor may not be as good.
Tomato terms: Determinate types ripen over 3 to 4 weeks and their bushes generally do not need staking, although cages can be helpful to support the weight of the fruit. Indeterminate types continue to grow and set and ripen fruit continuously until a frost arrives. Some may grow 5-6 feet or taller.
Hybrid breeding programs focus on traits like disease resistance, consistent maturity, uniform fruit, earliness, etc. Taste and nutritional value are secondary traits in this scenario. Seed saved from hybrid varieties will usually not produce a plant that resembles the variety.
Heirloom and Open Pollinated (OP) varieties are chiefly grown for their flavor. Heirloom is the name given to OP varieties that are more than 50 years old, usually with a regional or family history. Saved seed will grow plants identical to its parents.
Colors: Judging ripeness is often a matter of watching for a color change, or a softening of the fruit. Growing conditions can affect flavor and production. Some generalities:
Reds - So many to choose from-it's hard to pick a favorite. Brandywine is the standard that flavor has been measured against since the popularity of heirlooms has increased. Some that seem not so flavorful raw will actually be wonderful roasted, dried or sauced.
Pinks - Think watermelon shades. Tend to be sweeter than reds.
Blacks - Reds that have brown or mahogany overtones that tend to be darker on the shoulders. The degree of darkness can be affected by growing conditions. Many describe the taste as earthy, smoky or wine-flavored. I find them to be slightly salty and very yummy.
Greens - Retain their green color when ripe! They have a juicy, tangy, full-bodied tomato flavor that is heavenly in sandwiches. Most greens will get yellow-tinged as they ripen. They get sweeter and milder as they yellow. Try them at different degrees of ripeness to get the flavor you like.
Whites - Like the greens, these will take on yellow tones as they ripen. Flavor is also similar to the greens but not quite as tangy. Usually best picked when a very pale yellow.
Yellows - These tend to taste less tangy because they have higher sugar content. Some say they have less acid than other tomatoes. The deeper yellow and orange colored ones have what some describe as a touch of fruity flavor, like pineapple or peach. They are great eaten plain. A few slices on a plate make a beautiful and tasty garnish.
Bi-colored or Striped - Most of these are a combination of yellow or orange with red. Some will have a solid color inside, while others have a beautiful marbling. I find them to be some of the best tasting.
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