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It's not easy to come up with new articles every week, but I enjoy this time of year because I can begin to write about our spring class series.

I started my apple orchard many years ago and it has produced more apples every year than I deserve. When I planted my orchard there weren't experts around like Jim Birkholz to give me advice. Jim and his family own and operate the Pleasant Valley Orchard and pick-your-own strawberry business near Shafer.

Birkholz has conducted several fruit tree and strawberry classes for the Chisago County Master Gardeners over the years. Tuesday, February 24 at 6:30 p.m., he will kick off our annual spring series classes. His topic will be on pruning fruit trees. His hands-on approach is so popular, this is always our largest crowds of the series. He demonstrates how to prune young trees as well as renovation on old and neglected fruit trees.

Birkholz starts pruning his apple trees the first part of February. One reason for an early start is that he has more than 2,300 trees to prune. If you have just a few trees you can wait until the end of February or the first part of March. I wouldn't wait much later than that.

In past years, pruning too early in the winter increased the risk of winter injury. The amount of injury is directly related to length of time between pruning and temperature drop. Late winter pruning reduces the likelihood of extreme temperature drop, thereby reducing the risk of winter injury.

Dormant pruning of fruit trees minimizes the possibility of fire blight in crab and apple trees. It also reduces the risk of Nectria Canker and black knot of cherry and plum trees. February through March is the best time and safest time to prune, which is just before the buds swell. The key to spring pruning is to be finished before the leaves appear.

When pruning any tree, start by cutting out broken, dead or diseased branches. Next, focus on the tree structure, size and shape. Focus on removing competing branches, or co-dominant leaders. Those are the branches in the center of the tree fighting to be the tallest. Two competing leaders can easily serve as a breaking point as the tree matures.

Renovating old, neglected trees is hard work. One should stop and ask why before starting. There is usually one of three reasons why you should take on this task. First, you may want to improve the appearance of the tree. The second reason is to restore an old tree that has some sentimental value. The third and main reason is to once again get more and better fruit.

It will take about three years to complete the renovation process and in that amount of time, you could be harvesting fruit from a healthy, young, semi-dwarf tree. If you still want to renovate an old tree, be sure to clear away any competing trees and brush. Apple trees don't like shade.

If you prune trees at the proper time of year, you need not use pruning paint. In recent years, research has found that painting the trees actually interferes with the healing process. The exception would be if you must prune oak or elm trees during the oak wilt or Dutch elm season.

I won't even attempt to explain the proper way to prune fruit trees in this article. When Jim Birkholz does the pruning class Tuesday, February 24, he will give out excellent information as well as a demonstration on pruning and renovation of fruit trees. The class will be held at the North Branch Senior Center in North Branch

A mailing has already been sent out to the people on our list. The list includes anyone who has been at our Bonanza in the past, attended any of our classes, ordered bare root plants from us, or anyone who has requested to be notified that they want to be on our mailing list.

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