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Dr. Gary Johnson is a proven guru when it comes to knowing trees and shrubs. He writes about them, teaches class at the U of M and Arboretum, teaches new Master Gardeners, as well as helping those of us who have already taken the training.

He spoke at our September meeting on the benefits of planting trees and shrubs in the fall. Fall is an ideal time to establish the root system of hardy plants without branches and foliage demanding water and nutrients for new growth. Roots are most actively growing when the tops are at rest but still producing food. The two cool wet periods, fall and spring (normally), before plants have to endure the stresses of summer, help get them off to a great start.

One area for confusion is the difference between planting and transplanting.

Planting is literally placing a plant in the ground on what will hopefully be a permanent site. Transplanting involves digging up a plant from one site and relocating it at a new site. When planting is done, theoretically, no roots are lost. When transplanting is done, the majority of the tree's or shrub's original root system is removed during the process.

When planting a tree or shrub dig the hole wide but not deep. The plants want their shallow roots to spread just below the finished soil level. Set the plant on firm soil to prevent settling to a deeper level than desired. Mulch around the tree to a depth of four inches but not against the bark. Water per week until it freezes up. Conifers can be planted or transplanted through mid October or until the soil temperatures reach 40 degrees, other trees into November depending on the weather.

Bare-root transplanting is just what the term implies. This means that the plant's root system has little or no soil attached. This is preferred because the plant is much lighter and easier to move around. Also, any root problems can be seen and corrected and one can move a tree or shrub with a larger root system.

If the tree or shrub is balled and burlapped, carefully set the plant in the hole at or slightly higher than it was at the nursery. Remove as many obstacles to root growth as possible without compromising the integrity of the ball structure. Do not replace soil unless absolutely necessary but you can amend existing soil. Again, keep watering until the ground freezes and mulch four inches deep, not touching the bark. I asked Dr. Johnson if one should fertilize fall plantings. He recommended that one should save their money because it won't help, so wait until next spring.

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